By Jazmyne van Gosliga
Ever feel like hair products just don’t work the way they promise? Perhaps your hair oil sinks in but leaves your hair puffy and dry, or your conditioner seems to sit on top without making much difference. If this sounds familiar, hair porosity could be the missing piece in your hair care puzzle.
Understanding your hair’s porosity can be a game-changer when it comes to selecting the right products and getting the smooth, healthy results you’re after. So, what exactly is hair porosity, and why does it matter?
What is Hair Porosity?
At its core, hair porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and hold onto moisture. Imagine your hair as a sponge—some hair types soak up and retain moisture easily, while others struggle to absorb it or hold onto it.
Hair strands have three layers:
Medulla: The soft, inner core of the hair shaft
Cortex: The thick middle layer, which gives hair strength, elasticity, and colour
Cuticle: The outermost layer, made up of tiny, overlapping cells. This layer is key in determining hair porosity.
The cuticle acts as a shield, and how tightly or loosely these layers are packed affects how easily moisture and products can penetrate your hair.
Types of Hair Porosity
There are three main porosity types—low, medium, and high—each with its own characteristics and care needs.
Low Porosity
Low-porosity hair has tightly packed cuticles, making it resistant to moisture. While it’s less prone to frizz, it can be difficult for products to penetrate. Lightweight, water-based products are ideal for low-porosity hair. Consider using a clarifying shampoo to lift the cuticle slightly, allowing moisture to enter, and stick to protein-free conditioners with glycerine, which can help hydrate without build-up.
Medium Porosity
Medium-porosity hair has a balanced cuticle structure, meaning it absorbs and retains moisture well. This hair type is often the easiest to manage, style, and maintain. Medium-porosity hair tends to look glossy and healthy and handles colour and heat styling with minimal issues.
High Porosity
High-porosity hair has more widely spaced cuticles, which allows moisture to be absorbed quickly but also means it escapes just as fast. This hair type can look frizzy, dull, and prone to tangling. If your hair is highly porous, look for products that help lock in moisture. Protein treatments, leave-in conditioners, and sealing oils can help repair the cuticle, making hair stronger and shinier. Apple cider vinegar rinses can also help seal cuticles, balance pH, and promote shine.
How to Determine Your Hair’s Porosity
Wondering which type you have?
Try this simple test:
Take a clean strand of hair and place it in a bowl of water.
If it floats, you likely have low-porosity hair.
If it sinks immediately, your hair is high-porosity.
If it floats in the middle, you’re probably working with medium-porosity hair.
Why Porosity Changes
While genetics play a big role in determining porosity, environmental and physical factors can also have an impact. Here are a few causes of porosity changes:
Damage: Excessive heat styling, chemical treatments, and rough handling can increase hair porosity.
Environment: UV exposure, wind, and pollution can all affect porosity over time.
Ageing: As we age, hair cuticles naturally become more porous and prone to dryness.
Tailoring Your Routine
Now that you know about hair porosity, you can better tailor your hair care routine to suit your hair’s needs. Whether high or low porosity is genetic or due to external factors, the right products can help keep it manageable, healthy, and gorgeous.
Understanding and catering to your hair’s porosity can be the key to those great hair days you've been hoping for!
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